Friday, September 19, 2014

First day in the Sands of Thar

9/18/14                     
3:40 PM
I am sitting in Jal Bhagirathi Foundation’s (JBF) office at Bijolai Palace of Jodhpur (India). JBF is an innovative and philanthropic initiative led by the king of Jodhpur, His Highness Maharaja Gaj Singh Ji. He has been the king for last 50 years after an untimely death of his father Maharaja Hanumant Singh in a mysterious plane crash near Sumerpur (Rajasthan). This is my first day in JBF as a Program Specialist for a EU funded project on water security and climate change. This project is in Thar deserts of Rajasthan, which is the world’s most populated desert. The region has a history of devastating famines releasing untold miseries for the common people. Life is full of hardships, and spotting women walking 10 to 12 kilometers for drinking water is a common sight. His Highness Gaj Singh Ji’s vision is to revive the traditional water conservation and harvesting systems, which have been more or less lost because of the official apathy and retrograde red-tapism.  The ground-breaking work which JBF is doing reflects a Maharaja who at his heart so much connected with the people and still revered by the local population with more or less a Godly status. He is known to have a mild, humble and quiet disposition. Besides, he is also famous for his class, elegance and charisma. He is equally comfortable with the nobility from Europe on one hand and poor sudra peasant from a small place like Bayatu.
I am here after spending two years in the world of NYC and Washington DC. Ithaca, where I was studying public policy at Cornell, had minimum temperatures of -25 degree Celsius in winters and about 15 to 22 degree Celsius in summers. Jodhpur temperatures in summer soar as high as about 49 degree Celsius.  It is a journey from the Frigidaire to frying pan.  Bijolai palace is located about 10 kms outside the main city of Jodhpur. On my way, I saw houses of red Jodhpur stone, which is a sign of royalty here. Cows can be seen partying on the roads in different moods. I see a big group of elderly cows discussing some strategic matter concerning either their owner or their herd !!!!.  There is a local raika(local herdsman) with almost a meter long mustache and a turban weighing at least two and half kgs grazing a herd of about 500 sheep.  He is herding them with a complete poise and state of absolute detachment, occupying the entire width of the road. The trucks, cars are honking or rather trumpeting like a mad elephant but he does not seem to bother. Alongside the trucks I also see a group of five elephant brothers with five sadhu mahauts riding them. I find a strange understanding or a symbiotic arrangement between the mankind and the animal kingdom over sharing of the state owned road infrastructure. These animals are using the roads with an elegance and understanding of a very high order.
At Bijolai palace, my office is surrounded by water, water-borne diseases and scorching sun and an assortment of various species of animals which include merchant like monkeys, venomous, shiny and black water-loving cobras, chameleons, wild boars, and the most beautiful and colorful grasshoppers. My project director asked to be mindful of my steps as there are a good number of cobras here. I am told that the monkeys are the biggest threat to internet connectivity here. A few days back the management had installed machines to scare away monkeys which produce strange sounds to scare them. But, the merchant-like monkeys finally understood the trick and smashed the machines. Today, the accounts officer was summoned to answer the monkey-machine fiasco.

I hope there is a lot more to explore in this new world and I believe I will surely have some sort of enlightenment staying in this wilderness with the cobras, chameleons, monkeys and most importantly the ‘WATER’.

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