Tuesday, January 20, 2015

What a PM can learn from a true Statesman?

                                                
When the news reached that the government is awarding Bharat Ratna to Atal Bihari Vajpayee, one of the most towering figure of Indian politics, it became a matter of personal jubilation for me. In 2001, on one colorful evening of the chilling Delhi winters, I was visiting a prominent Muslim cabinet minister who was a part of a coalition government headed by Prime Minister Atal Bihari Vajpayee of BJP. There were some prominent people sitting in the dining hall like, an influential Christian rights leader, who was a staunch opponent of BJP and a human rights activist, who was also a bitter critique of BJP. After some niceties of wine and cheese, I saw the minister asking his close aide to carry some nicely cooked chicken curry to Prime Minister’s house. For a moment, I was amused by the childish demeanor of the minister and his innocent enthusiasm to send the chicken curry which he had himself prepared.  In the dinner that followed, the motley garb of secular, liberal and western-educated socialites who would not spare a single occasion to lampoon the saffron ideology and its torch-bearers, was praising Atal Bihari Vajpayee in Unison. I could see that Vajpayee ji was equally popular among his friends and foes as a man who enjoyed life, loved people and nurtured a poetic, romantic and innocent heart.
Atal Bihari Vajpayee is a legendry character in the history of India. He as a human being is liked alike by his friends and foes. Often, compared with Nehru, he was once mentioned as a right man in the wrong party by Congress leaders. Vajpayee ji, in his characteristic humorous style, once declared that he is a bachelor but not a Brahmachari. For any Indian politician, such a statement would be considered very bold and, on top of it, if it comes from a person who is born and brought up in strict Hindu nationalist ideology of Sangh and Jan Sangh , it feels like a cool breeze making one feels that his leader is a man with heart and humor. Even when I talk to my friends from Pakistan, they often express their genuine love and praise for Atal Ji. A few days back when he was awarded the Bharat Ratna, it became a matter of pride for everyone. Even a person like Mamta Banarjee who is famous for her acerbic tongue said that Atal ji is beyond politics and we all respect him.
While writing this article, I feel driven by two instincts. The first one, closer to my heart takes me to my schools days when I used to read Nehru’s autobiography and felt myself a part of world history. Atal ji has always given us a glimpse of Nehru in him, with his vices, poetry and vision. But, nevertheless, a politician must be the one who can connect with the hearts of people and if that takes some vices also, I feel that there is no harm in them. My second instinct compels me to venture beyond the aforementioned personality traits of Atal Ji and explore his leadership style. Someone who has held a soft corner for BJP and who is a keen student of Indian politics must feel the urge to see Modi vis-à-vis Atal Ji. I feel this urge because Modi ji has shown us a whole new dreamland of promises and his vision for India. He has also conveyed a genuine desire to execute his plan but having seen him work for last six months one can easily feel that there is something wrong; if not in the intensions of the man then most certainly in the way he practices his dreams. Atal Ji was never as vocal as Mr. Modi is about his vision for India but today when one looks back, one can easily see that he could achieve almost a revolution of sorts with his easy-going and humorous style.
For Vajpayee Ji, one expression, not very often used for politicians, can be used in order to give a best description of his leadership style and that is, ‘smooth player’. Yes, Vajpayee jee was a ‘smooth player’. He could steer India in the direction of rapid economic growth with a coalition that was marked by innumerable frictions ranging from ideologies to vested political interests. India made huge strides in the field of telecom revolution, liberalization, defense, diplomacy and infrastructure under Vajpayee ji’s leadership. He emerged as a strong leader in creating a brilliant nation-building team that comprised people like Adwani, Pramod Mahajan, Arun Shaurie, Suresh Prabhu and Jaswant Singh. The whole new chapter of Indian diplomacy with US was authored in Atal ji’s reign. One could feel the individual presence, personality and freedom of every minister under the towering personality of Atal ji.  Additionally, to a large extent he was able to keep Hindutva extremists at bay and did not hesitate in reprimanding Modi jee to follow the ‘Rajdharma’. With such an exemplary performance in governance, he was least expected to lose the elections. But he lost. I guess, Indian voters were not yet ready for such a big leap, but nevertheless, he definitely gave an impression of an institution-builder in his short reign.
In the present dispensation, any lay observer will feel that the Modi ji must take a cue from Atal ji. He is certainly becoming famous as someone who is giving sleepless nights to the ministers through his highly regimented schedule, spy-machinery and domineering style of administration. One feels that there is only one real ministry i.e. PMO and the rest are all honorary positions. One hardly feels any other presence than that of Mr. Modi, except a few people like Jaitly and Parikkar and, even they are known account of their previous credentials not because of their actions in the existing portfolios.
The government seems to be high on words and announcements but low on the follow-up.  Abbreviations, slogans, photo-ops, catchwords and loud declarations are abound but concrete actions plans are not yet visible for schemes like swachcha bharat, major reforms in civil services, infrastructure etc.
The essential difference between the two lies in the fact that Modi jee is at his best a crusader, and Atal ji,a philosopher, a zen monk who looks like a politician or Zorba the Buddha who happens to be a politician. Narendra bhai as a crusade has single-handedly fought against a nation-wide ostracization campaign led by media, intellectuals and politicians for almost a decade, for still-debatable, uncomfortable and hard-to-gloss-over reasons. But finally he rose like a phoenix, riding on the wave of development/Hindutva and made his way to seven race course. But, the problem is that he is still in the ‘crusader-mode’. He is still fighting and having witnessed his enthusiasm for elections, it seems that he still wants to go back in time and fight elections. His past still haunts his sub-consciousness. The personality conditioned by the circumstances of battle has its own complexities marked by fear, inability to trust, dictatorial attitude and little-bit of ruthlessness. But these complexities can never make a successful administrator. The times of elections are gone and now there is not even an opposition. Hence the obsession with elections and electoral victories must be left behind.  After all, someone had to win the elections after the vacuum that emanated from Congress’ incompetence and, this time it was BJP under Narendra Bhai. However, that is not all. If he needs to make a real difference then he has to rise above the narrow confines of ideology and show his mettle as a true statesman and administrator, like Atal jee.
It is high time that Modi ji took a lesson from the Bhishma of BJP i.e. Atal ji, become a bit more democratic, soft , trusting and liberal in leadership and, work on a long-term vision based on a wise statecraft and a sound understanding of the nation’s needs. If nothing else, then at least one of the most essential and a much-needed aspect of Vajpayee Jee’s model must be adopted with immediate effect, and i.e. non-polarizing approach and image. His public image still remains that of a polarizing leader who finds it immensely difficult to come out of the unrealistic and self-imposed confines of RSS background (rather than Hindutva ideology) and, is on the verge of failure to control the Hindutva extremists. Narendra Bhai needs to snip the wings of extremists with immediate effect, if he genuinely wants to have “Sabka Sath” and see “Sabka Vikaas”.

The crusader must seek blessings and wisdom from the ailing and dying, Zorba, the Buddha’.

Tuesday, December 30, 2014

महामीठो रस प्रेम को

चारो तरफ पसरा सन्नाटा ,
तुम जाने कहा खो गयी, यकीन नहीं आता
कोई डोर छूटी, तो कोई बुलबुला फूटा
अचानक कुछ अजीब-सा यहाँ घटा,
भीतर कुछ टूट-सा गया
की जैसे अचानक से बिन चाहे पिस्तौल से गोली चल जाये,
और, बगल में तुम्हे सहलाते खड़ी हो कोई कमसिन प्रेयसि,
की एकदम खून का फव्वारा फुट पड़े
कुछ देर तो सिर्फ लाल रंग लहू का नज़र आये,
न देखने की हिम्मत , की लहू किसका है
और न जानने की कोई अभिलाषा, की
मौन कौन हुआ है,
जैसे की कोई अनचाही समाधी बेवक़्त ही लग गयी हो
अनायास ही कोई घटना घट गयी हो
कोई तो अवश्य जागा  है,
जब ही तो तुम्हारी गोद में कोई खामोश लेटा है ,
लहू से सने तुम्हारे हाथ है,
लाल उंगलिया अवश्य ही केशो को सहला रही होंगी,
कोई प्यारा सा इंसान, जो तुम्हे बहुत करता था प्यार ,
 आँखे बंद किये, ठंडे शरीर में
निस्तेज सोया है, की जैसे कोई चिरनिद्रा में जाता हो।

तुम भी तो चुपचाप बैठे हो, ठिठक कर, एकदम मौन
की जैसे इन्द्रियों की शवयात्रा हो, और कोई योगी विजय मुद्रा में,
शिवालीन होकर एक दम तारो ताजा खड़ा है।  
अवश्य ही देवता फूल बरसा रहे होंगे,
बुद्ध को जब ज्ञान मिला था, तब भी गुलाब के फूलो की वर्षा हुई थी,
ये कैसा अनुभव है, कैसा विचित्र दृश्य है,
एक क्षण तो कोई ध्यानस्थ योगी नजर आता है,
और ठीक दुसरे ही क्षण तुम्हारी प्रेयसि का शव नज़र आता है ,
खून अभी तक बह रहा है, अब कुछ-कुछ ठंडा पड़ने लगा है ,
वह जो कुछ देर पहले सजती थी, इठलाति थी , तुम्हारे केशो को सहलाती थी
और न जाने कैसे भिन्न-भिन्न मुद्राओ में मुस्कुराती थी,
की बस अब कोई कामना ही नहीं, किसी सुख की
साक्षात काम का चरम सुख, तुम्हारी आत्मा को सुशोभित करता था
और तुम्हारी प्रेयसि के वक्षस्थल में ब्रह्मांडा शायद सुप्त अवस्था में,
अपने तमाम सुखो के साथ रहता था,
उसकी नाभि से सदा सोमरस की धारा निकलती थी,
और, तुम खूब करते थे उसका रसपान; कामानन्द में करते थे अंतर्स्नान।
अपनी प्रेयसि के अधोवस्त्रों में साक्षात करते थे शिव का दर्शन ,
की जैसे जीवन के महाध्यान का कामुक प्रयोग हो,
की ये क्या,
एक क्षण में सब  कल्पना मात्र  रह गया,
रह गया, किसी कवि का निर्मम ह्रदय और हो गयी प्रकट फिर से, एक फूहड़ कविता,
जिसमे वही शब्द, वही जड़ विचार, कोई नूतन नहीं
और वही शब्दों का मयाजा।

कुछ तो कहना होगा अंत में,
लेकिन ऐसा है की, हर बात का अंत नहीं होता ,
मेरा और तुम्हारा मिलन मात्र एक जनम मे नहीं होता,
कुछ तो है, जो है कालातीत,
परन्तु,
मुझे अपनी प्रेयसि से अलग होने का बड़ा दुख है,
ऐसे ही कुछ निर्बल क्षणों में,
वेदना के अंतहीन, बियाबान जंगलो में,
मैंने अक्सर परमात्मा को पुकारा है,
और, बुद्ध हो जाने का संकल्प अनेको बार दोहराया है।
किन्तु हर बार, तुम आई हो रूपा,
मुझे खीच लाने, की चलो संसार में सुख बहुत है शेष,
काम अभी करने है बहुत,
जीवन के संघर्ष, चोर, लुटेरे और राजनेता तुम्हे फिर से बुलाते है,
समाधी की चिंता छोड़, चलो मेरे साथ।
मैं ही कुण्डलिनी हूँ, सदा से तुम्हारे भीतर हूँ ,
इन काले जंगलो में तुम्हारा नहीं कोई काम,
मेरे सुन्दर नेत्रों और कामुक आलिंगन में ही, है तुम्हारा निर्वाण,
आओ मुझसे प्रेम करो, प्रेम ही ब्रह्म है, प्रेम ही परमात्मा है,
कोई और नहीं, मैं ही हिमालयपुत्री पारवती हूँ,
और तुम ही मेरे शिव हो,

कुछ और नहीं कहना मुझे ,
की बस, बात यही है की,
भीतर ही है समाधान,
चिरस्थायी वेदो का महाज्ञान।

चलो, शीग्र ही पकड़ो मेरा हाथ,
चूम लो मेरे नेत्र,
और करो,
महाप्रेम में अंतर्स्नान,
महाप्रेम में अंतर्स्नान
महाप्रेम में अंतरस्नान

Monday, December 22, 2014

Mr. Modi, Rein in the forces of Nuisance


On 16th May, I felt a great sense of jubilation over the victory of Mr. Narendra Modi, so called development messiah of India. The political space in India had become so corrupted that everyone wanted riddance from the misrule or rather chaos emanating from 200 years old party which seemed to have become outdated in every respect. The need for change, in fact, I would go to the extent of revolution was felt with such great urgency by everyone that a country of 1.2 billion people voted in unison after two decades. Mr. Modi , his promises and his governance model of Gujarat appealed to the young , emergent and growth-hungry middle class so much that the history of 2001-02 was sidelined for a moment. People like me who had left India for good, felt like coming back and they did. Many, including me came back to India shunning lucrative job prospects in US.
It’s been more than six months now and I am almost about to head back again to foreign lands to seek a better future. However, before going I feel like sounding an alarm bell to Mr. Modi so that his energy, caliber and ideas, which already seem to be vanishing into thin air, get a last chance of survival.
The disillusion has already set-in as even after six months a sound policy-framework for India’s growth trajectory seems to be completely missing. The government seems to promising a mile and that too only in words and giving an inch. We hoped for major reforms in governance,  bureaucratic recruitments, economy, rural development and foreign policy. Nothing came except a spate of few symbolic gestures like the appointment of Mr. Doval as NSA, clean India campaign, entertainment  generating talk-show-diplomacy of Mr. Modi and a ‘selfie’ every day. I personally submitted a presentation seeking desired reforms in foreign policy and recruitment-cum training of diplomats. But, nothing happened except a few formal meetings with 500 year old, status-quoist joint-secretaries. Even then I was hopeful as  I thought it might be too early to expect a completely change of development model.
But then after these disappointments, new breed of retrograde and saddening developments have emerged on the socio-political landscape of India. They are the release of the ‘forces of nuisance’ by which I mean the extreme Hindutva hardliners and a system they want to set-up in social, political, economic and educational landscape of the nation. Suddenly, it seems that ruffians and hooligans have thronged into the portals of power, and they are polluting the domain of policy-making. Now, notions like Indians flew fighter jets and knew stem-cell technologies in ancient times are being projected as a part of serious intellectual discourse. The home minister of the country claims that the ‘uncertainty principle’ of physics was stolen from Vedanta and other right wing ideologues can be often seen shouting that Lord Krishna raided Russia and captured 100,000 cows from there. Suddenly, the entire human progress in the field of science, technology, maths, medicine and human sciences seems to be emerging from the majestic ancient Indian culture and religious doctrines. Very soon, entire India will be 100% Hindu and then all the people travelling in trains, buses, rickshaws will be Hindus. Everyone will be a Hindu and then India will realize its true potential. The prominent right-wing leaders are claiming to change the geography of South-Asia and bring Pakistan back into India (might be out of sheer love for Lahori food!!!)
Previously, the case was that the policy was guided by semi-literate bureaucrats and a team of opportunistic, arrogant and misguided intellectuals who had no idea of the reality but now it seems that cheap, populist forces who are born and raised on conspiracy-theories and nukkad-type intellectualism will be formulating the policies for education, economy and geo-politics for a country which has all the potential to appear as a model of democratic growth in a highly multicultural society. And, once again it appears that India will miss the bus because these ‘forces of nuisance’ are high-jacking the political space and replacing the rhetoric of development with that of hatred and revenge. Suddenly, the fresh breeze of change and development appears to be smelling of hatred and vengeance.
As a policy analyst, I prefer to call these extreme rightwing Hindutva elements, the ‘forces of nuisance’. In my explanation, also lies the rationale for immediately suppressing them with a heavy hand. These forces in terms of impact can only generate chaos and social disharmony. They do not have the ability to become Al-quaida or Taliban because the society in which they are operating is far too diverse and modern to succumb to their ideology. In the jargon of political thought, two words are often used i.e. ‘religious identity’ and ‘political outcomes’. Religious identity can lead to political outcomes like terrorism, legislative measures etc. but that can happen only in specific circumstances. The organizations like Al-quaida, Taliban, IS etc. have been able to form a vague notion of ‘religious identity’ and generate political outcomes like killing of religious minorities, legal and administrative changes and the formation of religious governments. But that has happened because of the aid of other fortuitous factors like weak state institutions, weak traditions of democracy, culture and traditions of theocracy and the prominent role of army in the functioning of the state.
None of the afore-mentioned conditions are prevailing in the case of India. The last 60 years of independent India may not be regarded as stellar in the terms of economic growth and governance , but despite all these blemishes India has been able to preserve its secular , democratic and multicultural character. And, that is, and must be regarded as one of the India’s major achievements. No doubt, our still-growing democracy has generated its own anti-theses like caste-driven politics, minority-appeasement politics, corruption etc. but still India has been able to create a broad framework in which people of diverse religious and cultural denominations can live ‘happily and not-so-happily’, with their friendships and enmities.  These so-called ‘forces of nuisance’ will not be able to dismantle this framework and hence will fail miserably in terms of their stated objectives and outcomes, but in the process they will generate sporadic instances of communal riots, immolation of the religious places of minority communities and a milieu of social hatred. These things will be blown out of proportion by the semi-literate media and opportunistic politicians, who have vowed to hate you for a ‘reason’ or ‘no-reason’. And, hence your energies, efforts and resources will be diverted from the agenda of development and growth to defend the government and yourself in the parliament. The worst impact of such useless actions will be felt in international media. In international media, where there is complete dearth of understanding prevails as regards India’s culture, society and religion, these ‘forces of nuisance’ are compared with devastating forces of history like Nazis  (one feels like laughing at such a comparison) and India’s image gets a big set-back.

Therefore, to conclude I strongly recommend that such forces of nuisance must be contained, suppressed and sidelined with an immediate effect. If this is not done, your name in the history will be remembered with reference to the riots of Gujarat only.

Saturday, December 13, 2014

मैं, मृत्यु और, लीला

अगर जीवन यूहीं रिश्तो की जलती चिता हैं
वादो और भावनाओ का मरघट हैं,
जिस पर क्रूर अट्टहास करता मनुष्य हैं -
तो आज मेरी समझ में आया की वैराग्य क्यों महान हैं।

अरमानो के उफनते ज्वार में,
देह की असीमित आंच में,
लावण्य और सौंदर्य के अनैतिक आग्रह में,
मर्यादाये लांघते, उन्माद के अंतिम छोर पर अग्रसर,
सुन्दर और कोमल चितवन,
क्या मात्र एक छलावा हैं ?

इच्छाओ के इस तप्त मरुस्थल से ,
कामना के सघन वन से ,
और , मोह के स्वच्छंद उन्माद से ,
निकालकर मैंने सिर्फ,
मृत्यु को पाया हैं।

मृत्यु जो अटल है,
अविनाशी हैं ,
जो स्वयं एक सौंदर्य की एक अप्रतिम रचना हैं।

एक वक़्त मैं समझ चला
की पिता का कठोर अनुशासन ही अटल सत्य है,
माता के अश्रुपूर्ण लोचन ही अंतिम लक्ष्य हैं ,
बहन की चिंता ही वृक्ष की घनी छाव हैं ,
की,
लीला के प्यारे नेत्रों में श्वास लेता ,
मेरा महान, अजर और अविनाशी जीवन हैं।

समय के आवेग में,
पिता कब ऋषि सामान कोमल हो गए ,
माँ कितनी शीग्र बूढ़ा गयी
बहन विवाह पश्चात् ससुराल चली गयी ,
और , लीला तुम,
तुम तो जैसे बिन बोले, बिन सुने ओझल सी हो गयी,
मेरे सामने खड़े सुन्दर और कोमल वक्षस्थल पाषाण हो गए ,
मैं रोता रहा, चिल्लाता रहा, पुकारता रहा ,
लेकिन,
तुम, तुम  तो जा चुकी थी।
दूर , बहुत दूर ,
मुझे देख ही न पाती थी।


वादों के खँडहर में तुम्हे बहुत;
खोजा, पुकारा ,
और, खोजते-खोजते एक दिन रौशनी जाती रही,
पुकारते-पुकारते आवाज़ जाती रही।

कितना सुन्दर गाती थी तुम ,
सुरों के संगीत में, और
तुम्हारी गोद में ,
कितना कोमल था वह जीवन ,

गोया की, पेरिस की एक हसीं शाम हो ,
और, तुम लाल साड़ी में,
मेरे काँधे पे सर रखे, जीवन-पर्यन्त बैठी हो।

तुम्हारे जाने के बाद,
एक सघन मौन है,
मृत्यु का मौन।
मृत्यु,
जो की स्वयं एक कविता है,
तुम्हारी ही कोई लीला है,
की जैसे ,
पेरिस की एक हंसी शाम है ,
लाल साड़ी में, मेरे कंधे पर सर रखे
बैठी है जीवन-पर्यन्त, और जीवन के उस पार।

मृत्यु जो की एक कोमल वक्षस्थल है ,
देह की असीमित आंच में, मर्यादाएं लांघते चंचल चितवन हैं।

और,

ठगा-ठगा सा खड़ा,
एकमात्र दृष्टा और भोक्ता,
मैं हूँ या कोई परमात्मा हैं,
परमात्मा हैं , परमात्मा हैं।

Monday, December 1, 2014

Thakore Saheb


The dull, dry and hot summers of Marwaar sometimes have the silence of death. In fact the word ‘Marwaar’ itself comes from the Sanskrit word ‘Maruvat’ which means the land of death. This silence of death is most visible and felt in the hot months of May and June. It is sometimes broken by the music of scorching loo winds in the desert. It is the time of the year when the Baolis, Beris, Tankas and Nads go mostly dry and desolate, except that one can occasionally see emaciated cattle, a hopeless bird or a big-turbaned Raika[1] with his Nagra shoes and upturned mustache, on their banks. In one such summer, my father was asked by the Chief Minister of the state Mr. Joshi to take charge as the Deputy Superintendent of Police, of a small town called Bali.
Reluctantly, my father, who was till then serving in district near to his hometown, joined as the Deputy Superintendent of Bali. He was received by his official driver, Mehtab Singh on the railway station. Mehtab singh, originally from Jaisalmer had all the required physical features to plan a successful raid in Pakistan as a Bhati dacoit of Jaisalmer Riyasat. Unfortunately Jaisalmer Riyasat, the only state officially taxing dacoits and thieves had become a feudal relic and a wonderland, in the stories of grandmothers, with its tales of chivalry. And Pakistan had become a separate Jurassic Park so for Bhatis, dacoity as a career, and expression of valor was not a feasible option anymore. However, Mehtab Singh chose to become another variety of dacoit i.e. the dacoit with a uniform and a danda. With his mountain-like chest, three inches wide fingers as if they were about to drop some cow ghee on squeezing, snake-like dense and upturned mustaches and amber like big, fiery eyes, Mehtab Singh seemed none less than Ravana[2], to me as a child.
Marwaar of 80s was neck-deep in feudal order of society. For one serving in the police department, it was more or less the same as it used to be in the British time or state time. The officers in police department were like mai-baaps for common people. It was not unusual to have a retinue of 30 to 40 attendants at the sarkari residence which was referred to as ‘bangla’ in a very colonial style. The town was a sleepy, lazy and uneventful. For a police officer, the occasional robberies by dacoits and kanjars, honor-killings, family feuds, and elopement of girls were the main crime in that sleepy town. For an outsider there were not many options to make his evenings beautiful. Except for a few boring government officers, there were not many people to mingle around with.  
However, this was the exterior. If one ventured beyond his ‘sarkari’ existence, then he would found true and classic stories in that town; stories of love, lust, art and renunciation. The stories which were 1000s of years old, and if one could peel off the layers he could even get the glimpse of the continuity from the era of Buddha, Mahavira and Mauryas. In the hot and draught-stricken summer months one could readily spot Jain sravakas and Chullakas. Jaina monks would often frequent that area and spend their rainy season. Their chants seemed ordinary to the local people and the Marwari merchants who were mostly Jainas, but to the one passionate about ancient Indian history, those chants, chullakas and sravikas were like a joy ride into history. It was a sight of sheer joy, surprise, mystery and awe at the fact that how a tradition could be continued in its purest from since the age of Mahavira. My father would often wonder whether the earliest Jaina disciples of lord Mahavira and Jain sangha of 600 B.C. were similar to what those people did in the Bali of 1980s. “The people of 600 B.C., the way they behaved, the way they looked and dressed, their relations and politics was in anyway different from the present Jainas, or these present ones are the most authentic peep into the dark and unexplored alleys of history”, wondered my father. Many other stories of saints with supernatural powers, ghosts, Mamajis(local deities), kings and queens could be explored in that town and its surroundings. Those stories will continue to form a part of my writings forever.
In this story, I am going to tell about a man, who seemed like coming straight from world of surrealist painters, magical realist writers and the folklores. But at the same time, his close companionship made one feel that he came from your own, nearest and closest world. One could even feel that he came from one’s own heart or one might think that he wanted to or felt like that men at least once in his life time.
Shiladitya Singh Rathore was landlord of a small principality of Ratangarh. Shiladitya was the eldest son of Thakore Bhanupratap Singh. Shiladitya’s mother was from the royal family of Mangarh in Madhya Pradesh. Shiladitya grew up just like other young boys of princely families. He grew up hunting, pig-sticking, riding and playing cricket. He lost his father’s care and attention when Jennifer, a British theatre artist entered his father’s world of carnal pleasures. He was then sent to Mayo high school in Ajmer, where he befriended Adhiraj Singh, who hailed from a royal household in Madhya Pradesh.
Shiladitya and Adhiraj Singh had a very strange relationship. They were best of friends but somewhere inside there was hatred, rivalry and jealousy. Adhiraj Singh was like an alter-ego of Shiladitya. Shiladitya in his personal life was a man of few words and umpteen numbers of books. He lived in his idealistic world where Rajput virtues like truth, honesty, chivalry and loyalty held a supreme place. Adhiraj Singh lived in his own deceitful world where Rajput vices like drinking, gambling, women, lust and treachery reigned supreme. Adhiraj Singh was a master of words and a playful wizard who could mesmerize anyone with his flamboyance, boastful words and style whereas Shiladitya in his first impression always came up as an unusual, philosophical, artistic and a bit strange fellow. Because of this exterior impression, many could not understand his intense, innocent and a loyal soul.
After high school, Shiladitya came back to Ratangarh. In the sandy, dry state most of his time was spent in intense reading. He immersed himself into the world of Kafka, Nietzsche, Kant and Wittgenstein. Kantian stories of space and time became more intense and mind-boggling when they were transported from the philosophical debates of German universities to sandy, silent, cold and ancient nights of Marwaar. Shiladitya found himself more in the realm which lied in the zone of conjunction of metaphysics and spirituality. He found himself turning against feudal practices and regime. Bhanupratap Singh found his revolutionary instincts a cause of worry so he was sent to Cambridge for his higher studies.
The world of Cambridge was waiting for Shiladitya with three possibilities; first of exploring the wonders of metaphysics and linguistics, second; exploring the valley of bliss, death and passion, which opened through the eyes and curves of Rajyashri, and third; possibility of being or not-being the alter-ego Adhiraj Singh. The choice had already been made, but foolishly like you, me and all of us Shiladitya thought that he was the true agent.
Cambridge was a new world to explore. Shiladitya was miles away from the feudal winds and old sand dunes of Rajasthan. His day began with a morning stroll in the foggy mornings of Cambridge. Often, on those foggy mornings, he would befriend strange people from less known countries in that pre-globalized world. He would befriend professors, research scholars and at times beautiful women. After that he became a part of honorable Cambridge tradition through its high table British breakfasts, 11 o clock English teas, discourses on linguistics, bridge, golf and rowing. Within a year he had become a pukka sahib who did not want to go back to his hometown. He has made a kind of comfort zone in the intellectual circle of Cambridge, its philosophical society meetings, ballroom dancing and dramatic society. He thought he would become a professor in Cambridge.
Then one day, in this happy and eventful life he met Rajya Shri and Adhiraj Singh. Adhiraj had joined Cambridge an year after Shiladitya.  He was a family friend of Rajya Shri since both of them came from the same state of Madhya Pradesh in India. Adhiraj Singh formally introduced Rajya Shri to Shiladitya Singh. Rajya Shri, though came from a royal family, but was a complete anti-thesis to the life-style of a Rajput princess. She never observed purdah[3]. She rode motor bikes, drove the fastest cars and drank crazy. She tamed wildest of horses in the ground, and hunted the proudest men in the bed. She was free, wild and like a rage. Her passion for love, lust and cannabis knew no bounds.
Shiladitya could not protect himself from her intoxicating eyes for long. It began with ballroom dancing, flourished in hunting stories and poetry, and peaked in the carnal pleasures of foggy nights. However, the things were not as simple as they seemed. Rajya Shri was in love with Shiladitya, in ephemeral and abstract realms. But, she still found her human self wildly indulgent in the carnal pleasures with Adhiraj Singh. One half of her mind dreamt of a maddening grip of Adhiraj on her thighs and navel, the tickles on her back and craved for getting lost into the jungles of that wild, smelly male chest, whereas the other half of her mind discovered herself in the poetry of Shiladitya.
Soon she declared this elitist existential dilemma to Shiladitya: “I am mentally in love with you and physically in lust with Adhiraj”. For Rajya Shri, this dilemma was not an occasion for remorse, but a state of supreme enlightenment which comes rarely in this physical form. She was right, it was a rare phenomenon; unimaginably rare for Shiladitya, lovingly rare for Adhiraj Singh and ‘not-so-rare’ for Rajya Shri.
For Shiladitya, it was as if Descartes was coming out of his grave and staging a perfect demonstration of Cartesian dualism. For a moment, Shiladitya thought that he was suffering from a split personality and projecting his ontological adventures into the real life. However, he soon found out that it was his destiny - a woman with her instincts, fluctuating between disloyalty, sensuality, intense physical ‘craving’ and love. It was an ordeal of his lust, mental wildness or vulnerability. And, there was an alter-ego in the form of Adhiraj, ragingly after him at every stage of his life to rupture his inner peace and moral world.
Adhiraj Singh, was just like a nightmare which terrified Great Alexander in his secret moments. One could never find Shiladitya in that terrified state. Neither would anyone ever believe Shiladitya if he ever told anyone of such a nightmare because that nightmare had its existential relevance in nabbing Shiladitya in his most secret moments. It was a kind of internal and psychological torture which revealed itself to Shiladitya only. Possibly, it was an outward projection of his internal fears and failings. For others, Shiladitya was a brave, assertive, well-groomed and intellectual Rajput prince, but this prince was most scared when he was nearest to his victories in life, be it sports, books or women. He was scared of an illusory possibility of Adhiraj coming at that last moment and capturing all the spoils of his victories.
How much real this fear was; is quite a complicated phenomenon to explore but yes it was real to Shiladitya. It was real in his inner world. As a child, Shiladitya was once introduced to a learned astrologer and tantric from Kamrupa. His name was Dhurjati Narayan Mishra. It was believed that Dhurjati Narayan Mishra had conquered Karnapishachini[4]. Dhurjati Narayan Ji had told Shiladitya that in his Kundali[5], there was a yuti[6] of two papa grahas[7] i.e. Shani[8] and Mangal[9] and because of that, another papa graha, Rahu[10] in its mahadasha[11] will have a strong impact on his thoughts and events of life. Rahu as a planet generates inactivity as it is a tamsika griha[12]. Rahu is supposed to lead one to confusion and indecisiveness. It keeps one’s mind i.e. buddhi away from knowledge and wisdom. It drives one towards carnal pleasures. Shiladitya’s Rahu kaal had started with his promotion into grade 12th in Mayo school and in his grade 12th he met Adhiraj Singh for the first time. After that some coincidences occurred which embedded a notion, very strongly in Shiladitya’s mind; that Adhiraj was a Rahu in human form.
Whenever by chance or deliberate purpose, Shiladitya met Adhiraj, he would grow suspicious, uneasy and restive. Then, there was something mesmerizing about the Adhraj Singh. Shiladitya could never resist himself from getting drawn into ‘Adhiraj’ phenomenon. He always thought that he would be extremely careful but Adhiraj with his celestial vibes was always one-step ahead of Shiladitya Singh. ‘Adhiraj phases’ of Shiladitya’s life always ended with something more confusing, elusive and deluding.
In Cambridge, began a phase of the most original battle of mankind i.e. the battle for women. The species of advanced apes had always fought this kind of battle right from proto-historical periods to Harappa to Mahabharata. 700 years back a brutal, barbaric and lusty king Allahudinn khaliji had attacked Chittor to get Padmavati, the beautiful Rajput queen of Chittor. This time battleground was in Cambridge and as always the unmoved mover was Rajyashri. In this battle, Darwin’s advanced apes were the students of refined philosophical thought and sciences, wore Gucci and channel, but were still fighting the most primitive battle. Surprisingly, this battle was won by Shiladitya. Rajyashri could navigate through the mind-body dualism and locate her true love in Shiladitya. However she could do it only after three years of endless wandering into the jungles of flesh, philosophy and morality. But, this did not happen without an anti-thesis. It left a deep wound in Adhiraj’s heart. Shiladitya firmly believed that the reaction would happen sometime as no action in the cosmic realm goes without a reaction.
Shiladitya married Rajyashri after coming back from Cambridge. It was a grand princely wedding which was remembered for years. After marriage, Shiladitya worked as a diplomat in Paris for few years. In Paris, he was accompanied by his beautiful wife Rajyashri. Shiladitya’s poetry and art, Rajyashri’s eyes and red wine, and the evenings of Paris made the perfect combination. Shiladitya often called his Paris years a phase of romantic surrealism in his life.
However, the phase did not last long. After his father’s death in 1975, Shiladitya had to come back to Ratangarh. He came with a grand idea of converting his old palaces into hotels. His painter, writer and artist buddies in Europe had long wanted to explore the mystic music of sands. He had other ideas too like to start a community-based NGO for water conservation.
His business was growing by leaps and bounds. He was a happy and successful man, with a beautiful wife, a handsome son and lakhs of rupees to splurge on holidays in Europe. Then, one day he visited Dhurjati Narayan Mishra Ji, who was on his death bed. Dhurjati Narayan ji blessed him with prosperity and happiness, but before his death he uttered a few words,” rahu in its last phase becomes the most vicious one…………………………………………………….brings complete ruination.”
Years of happy life, prosperity, social prestige and the political influence had brought Shiladitya far away from his mentally turbulent youth and the ghost of Adhiraj. His relation with Rajya shri had stabilized and it seemed that he was the happiest man on Earth. But Dhurjati Ji’s last words, kind of disturbed Shiladitya. He found out that the spell of Rahu was in its last phase, in his life. Once again the skeletons came out from the cupboards of his past.
Next morning, in the usual busy office hours, he received a guest. The guest was visiting Shiladitya after almost a decade. It was Kunwar Adhiraj Singh. Adhiraj had come with a friend of his. Amaury was a budding painter of Paris. Adhiraj requested Shiladitya to let Amaury study the murals of his palace. Amaury wanted to study the old Rajput paintings on Indian seasons. He wanted to study the painters patronized by the royal courts. Shiladitya was a great admirer of arts so he gladly accepted the proposal. That evening was the evening of cool summer breeze, kebabs of teetar (Indian partridge), laal maans (Rajput delicacy prepared in a traditional style), some good red wine, poetry and old Cambridge days. Intermittently, the old bitterness tried to surge its head but it was comfortably sidelined.
After the dinner, Amaury asked Rajya shri to dance. Rajya shri, was surprised and elated as after almost an era she was made to feel her real self-i.e. the passionate, sensual and amorous Rajya Shri. Nothing significant transpired between Adhiraj and Shiladitya. However, while leaving he told Shiladitya that he had forgiven him for marrying Rajya Shri. But, Shiladitya felt that Adhiraj was lying. He could still feel the depth of the wound which he had given to Adiraj by hurting his pride and for someone like Adhiraj, who had never tasted a defeat; it was not very easy to swallow the loss of pride and Rajya Shri.
From next day Amaury’s investigation began. He was meeting the local painters and examining the art works of the old court painters. In this schedule, he would often go to Shiladitya’s house and enjoyed a drink with him and Rajya shri. Soon Amaury, found that he was no more interested in the dead murals of the past. He felt himself being drawn into the colors and smells of a mural with life.
Rajya shri, with the passage of time had grown younger and prettier. Now her eyes reflected not only the sensual passion but a kind of stability and power, a grip which was kind of hypnotizing, and captivating to the limits of death. When Amaury saw her sipping wine in her chiffon sarees, her eyes seemed dangerously attractive. He could feel the colors and aromas of those colors. Those colors and their aromas were maddening for Amaury. They were the aromas of sin, a strange and irresistible temptation to immorality. Immorality seemed like a piece of art, the best painting Amaury could ever dream of. The sketch of sin it was, and his French soul discovered a new world of creativity defying the conventions. In this new world, creation was beyond the duality of morality and immorality. He felt depth and intensity of creation coming from blood of the evil sitting inside him.  The drive for this new and wild strain of creation emanated from the eyes of Rajya Shri. Then, it disappeared into her glass of wine and then went back into her eyes. Then, in her eyes, invisible it was, but it had the power to absorb the artist Amaoury into the black hole of Rajya Shri’s bosoms.
Shilditya was on a business trip to Europe. Amaoury’s meetings with Rajya Shri became frequent and they started going for picnics in the silent sands of Marwaar. Those picnics and the immoral strokes of Amaury revitalized the yearning for enlightenment, and the delusions of mind-body disconnect again in Rajya Shri. She felt a release of a wild energy pent-up for almost a decade. Amaury was portraying this wild energy on the canvass in myriad ways. It was expressed as naked Rayashri on a horse back. It was drawn as Rajya Shri naked from tip to toe barring her face clad with a translucent chunari; falling with an inviting reluctance on her bosoms, and Rajya shri partially closing her sinful eyes in the smoke of half-burnt bidi[13]. It was portrayed as nude Rajya Shri lying intoxicated, with half-closed eyes, on her bare breasts, in the lap of Shiva, the eternal Yogi. Her hair falling carelessly on her back and Shiva’s thighs like an erotic elephant burning in the fire of sensual craving- it was Rajyashri, her wild and unending desire for freedom and loss of her ego, and the colors of sin. The sin was at the peak of its beauty, and in realm where the border between indulgence and transcendence become obscure. The best was yet to come.
Amaury made a big canvas in his studio and invited Rajya shri to see his depiction of her wild energies. He told Rajyashri that he was now going to paint his masterpiece of sin, a dangerous world of colors and strokes which might deprive him of his rationality forever, and make him a lunatic. Rajya shri was thrilled with the idea and felt as if she was divinely ordained to be the part of this journey of her enlightenment that lied beyond this masterpiece of sin. Amaury and Rajya shri finished two bottles of wine. Then, they lied on the sand to listen to its song of death.  Then they soaked themselves in the colors of sin. Those two nude souls of sin soaked in the red, purple, blue, magenta and green of ‘sin’, rubbed against each other. They made love on the canvas. On the canvas, they played, felt the sin, and the color of sin. While making love, there were two active bodies and the two witnessing souls. The two witnessing souls were the moral conscience of Rajyashri and Amaury. Thus there were not two but four entities on the canvas. The artful and playful gymnastics and the sensual postures of an emotional artist and a passionate yogini soaked in colors, made the most enigmatic collage of colors on the canvas-the colors of lust, sin, sensuality, art, guilt, morals, conscience, and yearning for enlightenment.
But still there was something left i.e. the color of revenge. Human life is incomplete without this color as it has formed a fulcrum of the evolution of human consciousness and history. It has been the fundamental principle in the development of history, politics and the science of human behavior. The silence of sin was ruptured in a flash of a second. Red and hot blood sped like a jet and drained the canvas in a second. Thick and merciless splashes of blood completed the picture. The revenge had come and its color was red.
Next three years were spent in the court cases and hushing up the fairy-tale of a disloyal queen. Shiladitya singh had to spend millions on lawyers. Since he had social and political influence he could not be proved guilty in the court of law.
When my father joined as Deputy Superintendent of Bali, Shiladitya was a prominent political leader and enjoyed the love and support of his people. Soon my father became close friends with Shiladitya. He fondly remembers him as a man of integrity and high personal morals. He would often narrate the instances when Shiladitya generously opened the doors of his family treasury, when no help arrived from the government for drought relief.
Often, in his evenings with his close friends he used to narrate the story of Shiladitya. At times, I used to overhear the stories. He would often remember Shiladitya as a man of high intellectual calibre, connoisseur of wines and literature, a knowledgeable historian and a great friend. Shiladitya, though coming from a royal family performed a marvelous work for restoring the dignity of people form lower castes. After the unfortunate masterpiece of sin, he had devoted his life completely to people.
My father often used to go for hunting with Shiladitya Singh. Many a times he would spend his evenings with my father and the Munsif Magistrate Gulaam Muhammad Khan saheb. At times Shiladitya used to narrate the story of his life and would break into tears. He often felt the guilt of murdering his wife. That guilt was becoming intense. It was taking deep roots and Shiladitya Singh brimmed with the intense feeling of remorse. He started losing interest in his life, son, social affairs and friends. By the end of 1986, he mostly stayed alone. But, still his evenings with my father continued. On one such evening he gifted his favorite Beretta 38 special revolver to my father. He spent the rest of that evening in utter silence. My father saw the tears flowing down a mountain of honesty, friendship, integrity and principles.
At 3:30 in the night, Mehtab Singh knocked the doors of Deputy Superintendent’s residence. After a few minutes of silence, Mehtab Singh was sobbing. Thakore Sahib had shot himself dead.
Next morning, when my father went to Thakore Sahib’s bedroom for a formal investigation, he discovered three things: the masterpiece of sin with its colors of lust, love, revenge and the wild passion of Rajya shri, brittle, yellow pages of Shiladitya’s Kundli made by Dhurjati Narayan Ji, and the telephone number of Adhiraj Singh.








[1] Local shephard
[2] Mythological demon king of Ramayana
[3] Rajput tradition of hiding one’s face (royal ladies observe this)
[4] A tantric Goddess who bestows the power to know past, present and future
[5] Astrology chart, showing one’s future
[6] Conjuction
[7] Evil planets
[8] Saturn
[9] Mars
[10] Headless demon planet
[11] Period when Rahu governs one’s life
[12]  Sankhya school of Indian Philosphy defines tamsika as dark, generating inactivity and devotion for carnal pleasures
[13] A local unfiltered cigarette made of tendu  leaves , consumed in the rural areas. 

Friday, November 21, 2014

आख़िरी ख़त

किसी  खामोश रात में जब एक अनजाना सा भय;
कोई अनजानी सी सिहरन दे जाता है,

तो कही से उस  धुँधलाते चाँद में
तुम्हारा वही, प्यार भरा , मुस्कुरता चेहरा नज़र आ जाता है.……।
दूर, कुछ दूर , शायद बहुत दूर
अनवरत मुझसे होता दूर.....

कही कोई अदृश्य डोर सी हैं ,
जिसे तुमने जाने-अनजाने, अब तलक़ थाम  रखा है ;
और मैंने, शायद कस के जकड रखा है,
गोया की डोर छूटी, और.……

इस डोर को मैंने देखा है, जाना है , बहुत करीब से,
कोई ज़्यादा पुरानी बात नहीं;
किसी सर्द सुबह की धुप में,
जब तुमने एक प्याली चाय बनाई थी
और, मैंने एक सिगरेट सुलगाई थी।
हाँ, याद है तुम्हे, तुमने कहा था,
की तुम्हे सिगरेट का धुआं बहुत पसंद है,
उस धुऐ में तुम्हारी आँखे और भी नशीली  हो जाती थी,
और, धीमे से झुकती पलके न जाने कब चंचल हो जाती थी,
मैंने शायद एक तस्वीर भी ली थी तुम्हारी ...........

फिर तुमने हौले से छुआ था मुझे, की जैसे एक डोर बस बंध ……… सी गयी थी।
वह डोर हीथ्रो तक मेरे साथ थी,
उस खौफनाक तन्हाई में, रात दो बजे, मैंने तुम्हे ही तो पुकारा था.……
वह डोर तो इथिका में भी थी.……।

फिर न जाने,
कब वह ओझल सी हो गयी.…
कुछ ठीक से याद नहीं आता,
मै  नहीं जनता, वह जाने कहाँ  खो गयी.…… पर उस डोर के सहारे अक्सर तुम्हे ढूंढता हूँ।
न जाने कहाँ-कहाँ,
मेरी अपनी बेरुखी और रुस्वाई में,
इस सर्द रात के अनजाने अँधेरे में,
रिश्तो की खौफनाक भीड़ में........
सोचता हूँ की डोर है या  नहीं,
या
मैं खुद, महज़ तुम्हारा ख्याल तो नहीं ?

मैंने खुद को देखा था, तुम्हारी आँखों से,
अब भी सोचता हूँ की तुम चांदनी बनकर आ जाओ तो कुछ रौशनी हो जाये।

गर, धुँए  में तुम्हारा गुमां हो जाये,
तो जीने को चंद साँसे और मिल जाये













हो सके तो लौट आओ.…………………………………………।

Saturday, October 4, 2014

Jodhpur Dairies

I generally avoid travelling by buses in India, even though it’s a great window to know India, after Indian railways. Day before yesterday, I had to return from Jodhpur to my hometown Udaipur for Ashtami celebrations.  Ashtami happens to be on the eighth day of Navratri, the festival of power in which the entire nation delves into the worship of Goddess Durga, who sits on the tiger, and her sisters like Shailputri, Kalika, Kalratri etc. All of them have interesting forms, attires and favorite vehicles which even includes a flying donkey. It’s a day to worship power. The human search for power has often taken the shape of myriad religions. What is the real power? Is it absolute freedom i.e. the freedom from even the desire of power? If this is the truth then all the worship and esoteric meditative practices in Navratra become a religious pursuit in circle. By the way, this Navratra definitely marked the onset of India’s power in international politics. Prime Minister Modi went on 100 hour visit to United States where he conducted 50 meetings. He was on a complete fast to please Goddess Durga and in the official dinner with President Obama he just sipped water. It seems that Goddess Durga had actually showered India and Mr. Modi with her power!! The visit reminded me of dear friend Ambassador Muley who visited Cornell University at the request of International Affairs Forum in 2013 and delivered a terrific and enlightening lecture on India’s soft power and economic growth. The visit of Ambassador Muley, in many ways marked the beginning of the trends initiated by the honorable Prime Minister in his recent visit to US like giving an importance to public diplomacy and emphasis on India’s great soft power traditions of Yoga.
Coming back to my departure from Jodhpur, I would like to mention that I bought a bus ticket of a Volvo bus from Jodhpur to Udaipur. I paid $7.50 for a journey of 187.5 miles and about six hours. Officially, the Volvo buses are the most luxurious and the costliest buses of India and previously, they were known to be mostly used by the foreign visitors. But the bus which I hopped on was full of the great Indian middle class, explicitly showing the impact of 10 percent growth rates that India witnessed in the last decade.
The bus was not just a numerical congregation of the great Indian middle class but, more than that it was a complete kaleidoscope of the people’s values, ethos, beliefs, culture and a story of a nation’s ,rather Hindu civilization’s evolution in the last 2000 years.
The topics of discussions spanned diversity of space and time.  Mr. Mishra and Mr. Badamiya were arguing over number of Brahmins that should be fed on one’s parents’ shraaddha[1] . I was amazed at the strength and longevity of the belief in the unseen spirits of the father and mother. The practice was Shraaddha is as important to 21st century India’s digital/software men as it was to the Vedic tribal men who migrated to the sub-continent from Central Asia in 1500 BC.
“Prime Minister Modi has supernatural powers. He will make India the supremely powerful nation through his mystic yogic powers”, uttered Swami Ajodhanand Ji Maharaj to his team. He further roared, “India will force the world community to worship all the holy cows of the world and abstain from alcoholism. The European girls will girls will start wearing saree”. Everyone touched his feet at his victory speech. However, after a while he was challenged in a debate by Mr. Mathur who was a member of rationalist society.  “India has been the country of migrants and Hinduism must be accommodative in every respect. Hinduism should learn from west and adopt scientific temper. We must stop worshipping cows, snakes and dogs. “, remarked Mr. Mathur.  He was about to be thrashed at his revolutionary ideas but was saved by the bus driver.
I got to meet Mr. Raju who serves as a revenue inspector in Udaipur. Mr. Raju was a very humble, good hearted, simple and a family man. He says that he besides the salary of $400 per month, he is able to manage about $1000 from ‘unmentionable sources’ every month. He seemed quite happy with that. He comes from a very poor family of Jharkhand. Previously, he appeared for Indian Civil Services exam about seven times, but he was rejected in the interview. Thereafter, he worked as a monitoring consultant in the immunization program of UNICEF in Jharkhand. In that journey he encountered extreme poverty and countless deaths due to government negligence, corruption. 
“Often Tribal girls are molested and raped by the forest officials, landlords. The vaccines supplied by UNICEF are sold by corrupt doctors. Most of the people do not even get two-square meals. They wear absolutely nothing. Even if they get to eat something, it is watery soup of lentils and course rice. Such conditions have given rise to Naxalism i.e. left wing radicalism. Naxals do not want any official interference, be it development or infrastructure. Government has lost faith in this belt. But the Naxals are nice to common people. Non-official visitors are not harmed by Naxals”,  said Mr. Raju with slightly philosophical and helpless smile on his face as if the solution to this misery lies, only in Nirwana.
Besides, the aforementioned colors of Indian society there are a couple of mother things worth mentioning. After my conversation with Mr. Raju, aroma of oily and spicy potato curry and parathas invaded my nose. In the middle of dense forest the heavenly smell of the parathas was a real delight. Having home-cooked meals in buses and trains is the most treasured pleasure for a middle-class Indian. However, soon after, there was an unpleasant invasion of spicy farts. The farts reflected a refined mixture of all oriental spices and some oriental philosophy (which could inspire one to realize the futility of this dirty human body and begin a spiritual quest).
By the time, I reached Udaipur I needed a dosage of pain-killer and some fresh air as the old-fashioned AC, its occasional fumes and smelly, spicy farts produced a strange combination of lethal aromas which could almost kill a human baby!!!




[1] A Hindu practice dating back to Rigvedic times, which has sustained itself as an important part of Hindu identity through the last 3500 years